Saturday, December 12, 2009

Weihnachtsmarkts...

At the Weihnachtsmarkt at Schloss Charlottenburg
(my favorite Markt)

There is no better way to get into the Christmas Spirit than by visiting a Weihnachtsmarkt. Even the biggest Scrooge cannot help but hum a merry carol while walking past the brightly decorated booths and stands at these infamous German markets. From handcrafted, wooden, “Erzgebirge” ornaments to homemade honey, marmalade and pralines, one can easily find a gift for everyone on their list.


There are over fifty different Christmas markets in the city of Berlin, however, we only had the patience to visit six: Frohnauer, City Markt, Opernpalais, Spandauer, Gendarmenmarkt, and Schloss Charlottenburg. While each Markt essentially contained the same stands, they did vary slightly depending of their audience.


Frohnau is a wealthier suburb of Berlin (were my school is located,) and therefore had a smaller Markt that offered a large selection of handcrafted goods, such as wooden figures, felt toys, knitted scarves, and metal garden ornaments.


Fronauer Weihnachtsmarkt


Opa, Mina and I enjoying the live music


City Markt, located in KuDamm- the old “center-point” for West Berlin, was a bit cheesier than the other markets. Instead of selling wooden and glass ornaments, it’s stands sold mostly plastic goods.


City Markt


My host mother and I visited the market at Opernpalais (the Deutsche opera house across from the Brandenburger Tor) together. It was definitely the largest of all the Markts, and also included a carnival.


Opernpalais


Opa and I visited the Spandauer Weihnachtsmarkt together, and were surprised to find a smaller “old Bethlehem” market within the traditional Markt. The “old Bethlehem” market was a nice twist on the typical experience, and it was especially refreshing to stand by the warm campfires stationed among the stands.


Spandauer Weihnachtsmarkt


Gendarmenmarkt is considered by many to be the most romantic spot in Berlin. Surrounded by three beautiful, old buildings (the Deutschen Dom, the Französischen Dom, and the Konzerthaus,) the Markt is beautifully decorated with “Tanne” (evergreen branches) and sparkling Christmas lights, and was full of street performers and bands. It is also the only market that requires an entrance fee.


Gendarmenmarkt


Of all of the Weihnachtsmarkts I visited, the Markt at Schloss Charlottenburg was my favorite. Located in front of the beautiful palace in Charlottenburg (the ritzy side of old West Berlin’s “center,”) the market was full of live music and Glühwein “cafes.” Opa, Antje and I visited this Markt together one Friday evening, and were blown away by its presentation, tasteful stands, and “gemütlich” or merry atmosphere. The weather was very cold; -16 degrees Celsius which is 3 degrees Fahrenheit. Only with two sweaters, a winter jacket with a fleece lining, leggings, four pairs of fuzzy socks, snow boots, two pairs of gloves, a hat, and a new, hand knitted scarf was I able to keep warm. We all were in desperate need of a “Glühwein break” after an hour in the cold.


Schloss Charlottenburg


Glühwein is a warm punch with a red wine base, and is the most popular drink at Weihnachtsmarkts. Each Glühwein stand has its own mug, or “Tasse,” on which the year and the name of the Weihnachtsmarkt are printed. My mother collects these different mugs and uses them as a “tea or hot chocolate set” during the Christmas season. Being a dedicated and loving daughter, I decided not to purchase my Glühwein from any old stand, but rather to visit all of the stands and buy my wine from the booth with the prettiest and most original mug! Antje and Opa went along with my request, and together, we surveyed all of the stands until we had found three unique, yet classy, Glühwein Tassen. Warmed, we continued our stroll through the Markt, occasionally stopping to admire the goods at various stands.


Enjoying a Glühwein


While each Markt is unique in its own individual way, overall the markets basically offer the same wares. Christmas decorations, paper fairy light shades, wooden ornaments, lace tablecloths, jewelry, felt hats, wool gloves, knitted scarves and wax candles are all Weihnachtsmarkt staples. There are also enticing food stands, serving warm Glühwein, heiße Schokolade, freshly grilled Würstchens (sausages,) Flammekuchen (a pizza-like, cheese covered bread,) sugar roasted almonds (Mandeln,) Lebkuchen, Quarkballen (a donut like dessert,) and Crepes. Some Weihnachtsmarkts also included a small “Rummel”, or carnival, while others offer live bands.


Erzgebirgische Christmas ornaments


Freshly grilled sausages


Lebkuchen heart-shaped cookies and other sweets


More traditional Lebkuchen cookies


Weihnachtsmarkts, for me, are the epidemy of Christmas in Germany. They offer a place for families to gather, shop for gifts, eat delicious food, and immerse themselves in the “Stimmung” (atmosphere) of Christmas. After touring so many delightful and interesting Weihnachtsmarkts, I was filled with the Holiday spirit and eagerly anticipated Christmas Eve and the new traditions that awaited me.


My host mother and I in KaDeWe (the largest shopping mall in Berlin)

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